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**This procedure is best done outside.
**Remove any petcock, cap and crossover hoses there may be and seal all openings except the fuel inlet.
**DO NOT get any Tank Prep A (diluted or undiluted) on the painted surface of the tank as it will damage the paint!
#1 - Clean and etch the inside of the tank:
The inside of the tank should be completely free and clear of all loose particulates and corrosion. Even more importantly, it must be totally devoid of any and all oily substances, including any and all traces of gasoline, oil and grease.
Pour about a pint of liquid degreaser full strength into the tank and slosh vigorously with all the openings capped off. Do this for several minutes, and don't forget to invert the tank and get all of the surfaces degreased up around the fuel inlet, as well as the very top of the inside of the tank.
If the inside of the tank is pretty rusty or has particles stuck to the inside surfaces add several loose nuts and bolts to the degreaser to help break loose the surface contaminates. You may also use a couple 8" lengths of medium size linked chain or anything that will rub against the inner surface and can easily be removed.
Next, add about 1/2 gallon of the hottest water you can get to the degreaser still in the tank and slosh it around again for a few minutes. After you are quite certain that you've degreased all surfaces pour out the entire mixture and remove anything you inserted to help scour the inside surface (nuts, bolts, chain, etc.).
Now pour about a tablespoon of hand dishwashing liquid and about a gallon of very hot water into the tank and slosh thoroughly. Follow with as many cold water rinses as necessary to remove all trace of the dishwashing soap.
Now you are ready to use the Tank Prep A (Wash/Cleaner) that came with your KREEM Tank Prep Kit. This will completely clean and etch the inside surface of the tank.
Pour 2 to 2 1/2 gallons (depending on your tank volume) of the hottest water you can get into the tank and add Tank Prep A. Slosh the mixture around for several minutes being sure to get all inner surfaces etched including the inside top and fuel fill area. Sit the tank down for several minutes (10 - 15) between sloshings to let the Tank Prep A solution work. Prop the tank in different positions so the solution contacts all inner surfaces. Leave a small opening in the fuel filler plug to allow gas that is produced during the etching process to escape.
Carefully pour out the Tank Prep A solution into a container for storage so you may use it in the future. Flush the tank with cool water. Inspect the inside of the tank to be sure all rust has been removed and the inner surfaces are etched. Reapply the Tank Prep A solution if needed. Flush the tank with cool water until the rinse water no longer foams and all trace of Tank Prep A is eliminated.
#2 - Remove all water from the inside of the tank:
Perform this step in a WELL VENTELATED area. Immediately pour Tank Prep B (Conditioner) into the tank full strength and slosh it around so it contacts all inside surfaces. Pour the Tank Prep B out and immediately coat the inside of the tank with Fuel Tank Liner.
#3 - Coating:
Pour entire bottle of Fuel Tank Liner into the tank. Coat the interior surface by slowly rotating the tank in all directions. When all interior surfaces have been coated a large excess should remain. Let the tank stand for 10 minutes with the fuel inlet open. Seal the fuel inlet and rotate the tank again to recoat all inner surfaces. Let the tank stand on a different side for 10 minutes with the fuel inlet open. Repeat this process until the tank has the desired coating. Do not let the excess Fuel Tank Liner pool and dry. Drain off excess Fuel Tank Liner for later use.
#4 - Drying/curing time:
Unseal all tank openings. Allow the coating to air-dry for at least 24 hours in a well-ventilated area. If possible extend the drying time to 96 hours (4 days). A nozzle of a low pressure air compressor blowing into the fuel inlet and out another hole can shorten the drying/curing time.
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21 tips to help you survive riding in traffic and have a good time doing it:
1. Assume everyone is out to kill you. Cars especially are your enemy.
2. When crossing traffic (coming out of a parking lot, a STOP sign, a traffic light, etc.) always look left, right then left again. You'll see the guy coming from the right, and probably be able to avoid him, but the guy from the left will kill you.
3. Be very aware of the wind blast and suction created by semi-trucks. You can be blown completely off the road or pulled under their tires.
4. Watch out for birds and large insects in the air in front or you. A June Bug at 65 mph hurts a lot and a bird can knock you off your bike and kill you.
5. The dog that runs after cars is a bother and danger to himself if you're in a car. On your bike that same dog can kill you.
6. Use defensive driving techniques but modify them to be aggressive.
7. Force other drivers to acknowledge your presence.
8. Turn your head when you look around, rather than just your eyes, so other drivers see you paying attention to your surroundings.
9. Stay in a line just to the left of a preceding vehicles' left rear fender when following a car or truck. This will place you squarely in view of their rear view mirror.
10. Turn your head and stare directly into the eyes of other drivers when passing or waiting to cross traffic. This will help force them to notice you and tends to intimidate them so they will give you time to complete your maneuver.
11. Pass other vehicles fast. Slow down after you pull into the lane ahead of another vehicle. This will help force them to notice you and tends to intimidate them so they will continue to pay attention to you and not hit you from the rear.
12. If you're traveling next to car, position yourself just ahead of their front bumper. This will place you where the driver can easily see you and, if you're on the left side, deliver all the noise your bike produces right into their side window. This makes it very hard for them not to notice you and is intimidating so they will keep an eye on you.
13. Any time you see someone roll their window up when you're near them it's a very good thing. That means you've been noticed and are way less likely to be hit by that vehicle.
14. If you hear some driver say something like "That damn motorcycle passed me…" smile. That means the biker successfully forced that driver to pay attention to him rather than cut him off or even hit him.
15. Your bike is more agile and responsive that almost any car. Use these advantages.
16. If you're on a road with no traffic play a little to learn (or remind yourself) how your bike handles and stops. Try weaving through the white lines in the center, make big sweeping "S" curves as you drive, lock the rear brake up or anything else that helps you know your bike. Naturally be very careful.
17. Practice carrying a passenger before you carry someone for any distance or on the highway. Your bike will handle completely differently with a passenger (any passenger). It takes time for someone to learn to ride as a passenger just as it does to learn to drive the bike. Any movement by the passenger (raising their arm to point to something, twisting to look at something, etc.) can throw your balance off. Be ready for it.
18. Slow down or stop to allow little kids and pretty ladies to cross in front of you on side streets or in parking lots.
19. Smile and tip your hat, or nod, to pretty ladies in cars.
20. Wave back at little kids.
21. Always wave at other bikers.
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Speed limits mean nothing. If you don't drive at least 10 mph faster than the posted limit you risk being run over or hit from behind.
Left turn lanes are not turn lanes. They are actually passing lanes.
Slower traffic keep right has no meaning here.
Yield to oncoming traffic has no meaning here.
If traffic is backed up, expect people to drive in the oncoming lane to move ahead.
Stop signs don't mean anything. You should slow down only if you wish to.
Red lights don't mean anything. If a car is within 100 yards of a light when it turns red you should expect it to run the light.
When you approach a light that is turning red look in your rear view mirror. There is a good chance the driver behind you is not going to slow down for the red light so you better run it or get hit from behind.
Insurance laws mean nothing. If you are in an accident expect the other driver not to have insurance.
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Pay attention to the parts that get put on your bike. This customer came in with a bike that wouldn't run. The cam timing was off and the valves were not opening/closing at the proper time. When we took the top of the enging off we could see why the cam timing had changed.
Someone had installed a cam chain that didn't fit the bike. Notice how the chain doesn't fit on the sprocket? I'm surprised it ever ran at all.
This could have easily bent or broken valves, cracked a piston or damaged the head. Fortunately, all this customer needed was the cam chain and sprocket. It could have been MUCH worse.
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